In my photography group, we are given monthly photo themes to challenge us. This month: Liquids.
Our weekend in the Cinque Terre gave me plenty of vantage points to capture water. Here are a few of my favorites:
Road trips can be fun but sometimes the way home can be a downer, knowing you are returning from doing something really fun. So, one of our new pastimes when taking a road trip is to find unexpected gems. So, on our way home from a weekend, if we have time, we pull out the maps and books and see what might be on the way.
Returning from the Cinque Terre, we saw that Portofino was nearby on the map. I’ll be honest – the most I knew about Portofino prior to this trip was that there was an Italian restaurant named after it in Charlotte, NC, where we lived prior.
On the way, I read aloud to Gabe some details about the Italian city of Portofino, not be confused with the aforementioned suburban restaurant. Italian history dates the settlement of Portofino back to the 10th century, where it was coveted for its protected harbor. It changed hands many times but the harbor was a major asset for the likes of military giants such as Napolean and Hitler.
Post WW2, expatriates began to flock to the town and it soon built a glamorous name due to its holiday clientele. By the 1950’s era, it was a major vacation spot of the rich and famous. Things got so rowdy that Rex Harrison dropped his Oscar in the harbor. Truman Capote, Greta Garbo, and Ava Gardner also frequented the Italian port town. Elizabeth Taylor took all of her husbands there.
As we started the drive in, we got the feeling we were in for something special. Rounding the cliffs overrun with pristine mansions and elegant hotels, we felt like we were in Monaco, yet with a rustic Italian feel.
When we arrived in the pedestrian-only Portofino, we parked our car and traveled on the cobblestone path towards the port. We passed storefronts such as Dior and Louis Vitton, mixed in with small family-owned Italian groceries and pizza shops.
And when we reached the harbor, I was instantly enamored. Beautiful colored buildings hugged a pristine turqouise-blue bay.
Cafés were starting to set up outdoor dining, even with the threat of a rain storm. We grabbed a prime spot at la Stella under a canopy and happily enjoyed a glass of the house white wine while deciding what pasta we’d order.
I ordered the pasta del giorgno: a shrimp & zucchini spaghetti. Although we’d each had two servings of pesto pasta while in the Cinque Terre, Gabe had wanted to try the pesto lasagna.
After lunch, we took a stroll on the Promenade di Portofino letting our legs stretch before the remaining four hour journey home.
Elizabeth Taylor, I’ll never be, but I sure did like playing the part one afternoon in the Italian Riviera.
Cinque Terre, Italy is one of my favorite places in the world. I first discovered it with friend R in the summer of 2007 during our girls trip to Italy. Cinque Terre means 5 Lands in Italian and the area is comprised by five small towns perched on cliffs above the Ligurian Sea.
The area is a UNESCO world heritage site because of the early civilizations’ ability to build, live, and thrive on landscape that has the odds of being inhabitable.
I wanted to share it with Gabe, so we had selected it for one of our Honeyfund trips for our wedding. We planned to go after my feet had fully recovered, which ended up being this Fall. While we had some stormy skies our entire trip, I found the lack of tourists and cooler weather to be an refreshing change.
MONTEROSSO AL MARE, #5 was the town we stayed in. It is the biggest, and I picked it due to our late arrival as it had more hotels that accomodated late check-in as well as actual parking lots for our car. We arrived around 9pm and found that we couldn’t drive through town to the side we were staying in. Note to future travelers: the Old Town and New Town are not connected for the average driver, only with special permit can you open the chain / gates. It is a 20 – 30 minute deviation to drive back up the mountain to come back the other side. So make sure to note that in your driving plans!
We checked into Hotel Baia. It was a basic Italian room, but in a suberb location on the water and near the Monterosso train station.
Early the next morning, we put on our rain gear and set out to hike the seven mile Trail 2 from our hotel to Riomaggiore. We were greeted with a locked gate. The trails were closed due to the mudslides last October and continuing bad weather. Oops. While I researched the affects of the mudslides on the towns, I had not specifically looked into the trails.
Luckily there is a fantastic transportation solution – a regional train connects the five towns with an hourly train. While they aren’t quite always on time, it was a very nice back-up to get to see the area with the trail closings.
The next stop, VERNAZZA, #4, was my favorite of the five towns during the 2007 trip. It has a natural harbor and I adore the bell tower from the church and how it looks over the coast. We saw a large poster detailing the devastation the mudslides caused in this particular town. It showcased homeowners and shopkeepers standing in the mud which once was their home/shop. The beach was still a little damaged, but otherwise, there were scarce signs of the horrors they experienced last October. They’ve done a remarkable job cleaning up.
Still too early for lunch, we climbed to the highest point of the town – the castle. We loved seeing the ominous skies surround the colorful buildings.
We enjoyed a lovely lunch at Gambero Rosso, the same restaurant where R and I had enjoyed a meal five years prior. We both ordered the fresh pasta with pesto, a Ligurian specialty with a glass of local white wine. Deliciouso!
After lunch, we scurried to catch our train. Due to some technical difficulties which I’ll chalk up to
not reading the board properly Italian chaos and mis-direction, we missed the hourly train to the next town of Corniglia. We opted to catch the next train which bypassed the other two towns in order not to lose another full hour.
RIOMAGGIORE, #1, is the first town on the trail and supposedly the least touristic. We watch a fisherman for awhile and reflected on the colorful boats and buildings which trailed upwards.
We explored the height of the town, certainly the “most vertical” of the five, and sat for a quick glass of vino, another Cinque Terre white varietal. After, we caught the train backwards to town #4.
MANAROLA, #4, was Gabe’s favorite of the Cinque Terre. Back when we were single girls on our Italian vacation, R and I had headed straight for Manarola’s beach to catch all the summer action. Now, it was a ghost-town, but it left us more time for exploration. We wound around the vineyards surrounding the village, getting every vantage point. I’d have to say that this trip, Manarola was my favorite.
Because we liked it so much, we opted for a longer stay in Manarola versus hitting the fifth town of Corniglia. My husband prefers to enjoy fewer activities for longer…..quality not quantity. And for me, it’s a good lesson for me to remember as I never want to miss anything. Gabe joked it would have to be Quattro Terre for him.
We were able to see Corniglia from a distance.
Good thing we opted to leave. The skies let loose after we got to Manarola’s station. In order to reach Corniglia, there are 400 steps. So, I am thankful we weren’t caught in that exploring the last remaining town.
We returned to Monterosso for a wonderful dinner at Ciak and drinks at Enoteca da Eliseo. We ended up seeing the couple who’d taken our photo in Vernazza. They were photographers from Indianapolis who were celebrating their 5th wedding anniversary. We had a few drinks with them comparing travel notes.
It was an awesome weekend. A big thanks to our Honeyfund contributors from our wedding. You really made our 18 month anniversary (Nov 7) very special. We appreciate it!
We had planned to go to the second wedding in Goiania, Brazil. We had a few days before the rest of the guests and the bride & groom arrived to Goiania, so decided to hit another Brazilian locale. We chose Rio de Janeiro as we had heard a lot of good things about the oceanfront city.
It was winter in Brazil, but temperatures were still warm in the upper 70’s. It was cooler than it had been in the States but not too cool for swimming.
We stayed at Copacabana Beach. This was mainly due to the fact that we had Marriott points and the JW Marriott was the only option of the chain in Rio. Our hotel was right across from the famous beach. It was nice…we ended up taking a walk daily down its 6km length.
However, our favorite was probably Ipanema. As I have mentioned before on the blog, I love it when beach landscapes have terrain adding to the panorama than just the ocean. And Ipanema fit my “perfect beach” because of this quality. It also had gorgeous blue water and felt a bit safer than some of the other beaches that we visited.
We also took a walk on Praia de São Conrado. It is more southward of the city and located just under one of the 1500 slums in Rio. It stands in the shadow of Pedra da Gavea, which is the world’s largest monolith sitting on a coastline.. Again, I enjoyed it because of this feature.
Lusi drove us by the 22 km Barra da Tijuca beach, but we ended up just taking a drive because it was so long and we were limited on time.
A few tips on beaches:
- Pack sunscreen – the sun is intense!!!! We had a lot of haze but the sun still can penetrate your skin.
- Wear the right flip flops. The Brazilian brand Havaianas is famous. You can purchase them for 15 R and up on the streets.
- Be careful. We had heard never to walk on the beach after dark. Also, we were strongly discouraged to take a camera on a walk on the beach or any money, watches or valuables. These photos were taken from high rises, or either when our tour car was in sight.
- As far as attire, anything goes. We saw everyone from five year olds to grandmas sporting the famous Brazilian thong (called fio dental translating to “dental floss”). No one lets weight or age stand in their way. Plus, speedos are the norm for the fellows.
Hermance is located north of Geneva. It is 30 minutes on Bus E. I mentioned in a previous post, it is a nice little village, beautiful and charming. Also, for guests, it can be a quick way to cross the border into France, as we did this spring.
It also has a really nice stone beach. I visited this summer with my friend San Francisco Gal. We made a picnic and enjoyed the sunshine.
A few things to know about the beach in Hermance:
-entry is 4 CHF for adults and 1 CHF for kids
-they have a snack shop, so you can purchase food & drinks (alternatively, we brought our own)
-its really windy since it is on a point…be prepared for temperatures cooler than Geneva
-its a rock beach as is common on Lake Geneva. Maybe bring water shoes if you plan to do a lot of walking/swimming.
-there are a lot of scuba divers. They have special scuba showers and it is common to witness scuba activity such as this:
-They have some ‘killer’ ducks. It started as innocent as them pecking at my big toe, but then they quickly took over our picnic. Have you ever seen anything like this?
It has been a dream of ours to return to Greece, ever since our trip to the country in May 2010. We enjoyed the history, being surrounded upon every turn with magnificent ruins and chronicles of the past. We loved the amazing simplicity of their food. We appreciated the openness of the people, so eager to share their culture, their specialties. And, the islands….the highlight for me. I cried the day we left Santorini because I didn’t want to leave the most beautiful place I’d ever seen. And Santorini being my favorite place in the world…still true.
This time, for our return trip, we selected the island of Crete. We had heard the enormous island had a ton to offer – in history, more great food, and gorgeous blue waters.
We stayed in the Mirabello Bay, in between the town of Elounda and the tiny fishing village of Plaka. I had selected the hotel based on the photos I’d seen other travelers post online of the Elounda area. I just love it when there are other islands or peninsulas to look at in the distance.
A guy on our plane to Dublin told us Ireland had 30 shades of green. I’d say, they certainly do, but if you are dedicating colors to islands…Crete has 50 shades of blue.