Driving on the Wrong Side of the Road

We rented a car so we could see Ireland’s magnificent countryside.  However, in Ireland, they drive on the left side of the road.    Gabe was a bit apprehensive…mainly about driving a stick.   The worries went away once he discovered the operations for the manual worked the same way, that he wouldn’t have to do that in reverse.  Just remember to drive on the opposite.

He did a remarkable job.  Not that it was easy.

First, the roads were narrow.  Our friend A in Geneva lived in Ireland a few years.  He called them the “sweaty palm roads”.

Yes, this road is for both directions

In addition, you had to watch out for oncoming traffic.  And random farm animals.

Not enough room for two

Watch out…cows!

Kudos to Gabe for keeping us alive!

Gratitude Friday: My Time Capsule

When we were in elementary school, we sometimes made time capsules.  The concept was that one would fill a box with things of that era, bury it, so that in the future, someone would know find it and know what life was like back then.   In 6th grade, I think we filled ours with Milly Vanilli cassettes, slap bracelets, and the like.

I was visiting my Mom in Virginia this week and happened to find a special time capsule.

She’s had all my father’s memorabilia packed into the basement since his passing.  I remember as a child a really neat scrapbook she’d made him after they got married. She took all his souvenirs and keepsakes from his summer in Europe and made a book to tell the story.  Anyhow, I have been looking for it for at least the past five years and every trip down to the basement, I haven’t found it.

It became more important to me now we live in Europe.  I wanted to line up our travels and compare sites.

I always loved this photo and wanted to know the history. Anyone know what city this could have been? Amsterdam?

And this leads us to this Friday’s gratitude post…. this trip, I attempted again and voila, they were found.  Actually in the spot they should have been.  Not sure how I overlooked these totes each time.

I wanted to share some of what I found:

Dachau brochures

Was a book from Sweeden

The Berlin wall would only have been 5 years old when he visited in 1966

Loved the 5 franc piece

They had “crashed” a party of Princess Grace and Prince Rainer while traveling through Monaco. They even took a napkin and menu as a little souvenir. My grandparents saved the article from The States about the party.

Their road map with stops circled

Mugs from Haufbrau House

Coasters from all over Europe

We’d seen this rainbow the night before setting over the house.  I’m grateful for the spot of luck in brought me in my search!

 Not sure what my plans are for the items. They’ll stay in Virginia I think until we are back in The States.  Then maybe the coasters can become a glass topped table, and we’ll surely have to display the HB house things in our future home.

Bon weekend, everyone!

Animals of Ireland

I loved seeing the different animals during our time in the Irish countryside.  Since farming is the #1 industry, there are a lot of them.   I was happy with how well they were all treated.  They were all free range, happily roaming in their vast craggy fields and keeping guard on castles:

Horse in Liscannor

See the brown and white cows on the top of the cliffs?

Cow on the top of the Cliffs of Moher

Donkey guarding the stone ring fort

Sweet sheep

Aww. Cute baby.

Happy Irish Cows

Hello, I like to pose

On its perch

She’s going to make a nice sweater.

Donkeys

People friendly

Watch out for sheep!

I hate to say it, but they were pretty tasty too.   I had beef, lamb, and duck while in Ireland.  It’s nice to know they are free range and treated so well.

Irish Castles

We have seen our fair share of castles lately.  I thought I’d post a few from Ireland….

First of all, we ate in a castle on our way from Dublin to Galway.  At first glance, we thought it might be cheesy but it was the only open restaurant in town, Tyrellpass.  As it turned out, it was fully with locals.

Our 2nd castle-dining in a week. This one not a UNESCO site like Bellinzona.

Next we drove through The Burren and spotted a few on its craggy coast.

Dungary Castle

On the Ring of Kerry, we saw quite a few.   We spied this one from the road and it was completely deserted.  We thought it was quite cool with the growth.

Ballycarberry Castle

We also saw ring forts in the distance and explored two.   The ring forts were defensive structured.

Ring fort #1

Ring fort #1

Ring fort #2

Ring fort #2

Ring fort #2

On our way back from Killarney to Dublin, we stopped at Blarney Castle (home of the Blarney Stone) and the Rock of Cashel.  We found Blarney to be incredibly touristy.  We couldn’t wait to get out of there…

The Blarney stone is at the top

Rock of Cashel, however, was cooler.  It was a home for kings until one donated the grounds to the church for strategic reasons.  It then was used until only recently.  The roof has falled into decay so I am sure it is not that pleasant with the typical Ireland weather.

Approaching Rock of Cashel

Inside of Rock of Cashel

Nearby monastery

Beautiful gravestone

The Ring of Kerry took our breath away

When I first started researching our Ireland trip, something that caught my eye was driving the “Ring of Kerry”.   It is a road, about 112 miles looping in the county of Kerry through some pretty amazing and dynamic landscape.

Image courtesy of The Moorings

We got a hotel in Killarney which is the northernmost part and also the biggest town.

Here are some of our views from the drive:

Cliffs of Kerry

Cliffs of Kerry

Watching some surfing action.

Rolling hills of green

House overlooking the Atlantic Ocean

Loved the many little islands

Beautiful panorama

We were warned that there would be tour buses galore and it would get annoying driving down the roads.  However, we only saw three tour buses all day, so we really lucked out with the mild weather and unpopulated roads.    We only had to watch out for these guys :

Sheep in the road

In my reading, it said you could take from a full day to an entire week to do the ring of Kerry.  We only had a full day.  By the time we’d stopped at a few gorgeous places, we were running short on time and had to keep trekking back in order to get to our hotel at a reasonable time.  However, since we’d driven from Liscannor, we only started the ring at noon, so didn’t have a full day to start.

We stopped for an awesome seafood dinner at this “beach bar”

But to those going, I’d encourage you to break it up and try to do it in two days.     One, you can do it more leisurely and see more.  Two, if you are like me, I got so overwhelmed with how gorgeous it was that at the end, I couldn’t take in any more.  I had “panoramic shock”.

If you do it in two days, note that there were plenty of cute B & B’s along the route that would be lovely and advertise only 25 euro / night rooms.

Our tips:

–Do two days if possible

–Do the Skellig Ring add-on.  Our favorite!

–We also heard people liking the Skellig islands but we didn’t have time

–We ran into some recent grads from UGA and they said the cut through path in the middle of Ring of Kerry was pretty incredible too

–Don’t try to go too far off road. We almost got our rental car, Patrick, stuck in the middle of nowhere:

Yup, we drove down this road.  Gabe’s idea.  

Ireland’s West Coast: The Burren and The Cliffs of Moher

Our first day in the countryside included a drive down to our B & B near Liscannor, on the Western coast.   We drove from Dublin, through Galway and then southward.

On the way, we passed through The Burren which has an incredible panorama.   Edmond Ludlow in 1650 said,  “(Burren) is a country where there is not enough water to drown a man, wood enough to hang one, nor earth enough to bury him…… and yet their cattle are very fat; for the grass growing in turfs of earth, of two or three foot square, that lie between the rocks, which are of limestone, is very sweet and nourishing.

Landscape of The Burren

We found our B & B, Atlantic View, operated by energetic Mary and then headed to see the Cliffs of Moher.

Backpackers near Liscannor

We arrived around 7pm.  The views were breathtaking.  We had heard about them from Couch Surfer.

Gorgeous Cliffs of Moher

She had told us about people climbing on the path on the edge and she thought they were crazy.   Gabe coaxed me out there but I didn’t stay long, wanting to get back behind the safe wall.   The reason is that it is very windy.  I know it would take a lot to blow off the edge, but I didn’t want to take any chances.

Hubby on the edge.  He’s braver than me. 

The other side

We enjoyed the view for about two hours, quitting just before sunset.  With the sunset at about 10pm in Ireland during our trip, neither one of us could postpone dinner any longer.

One last glance. Beautiful.

We found a local joint, Daughan’s Anchor Inn, in the fishing village of Liscannor and happily enjoyed our seafood dinner.

The next morning we set off for Killarney, our base for exploring the Ring of Kerry.

Jameson Distillery

While in Dublin, two of the tours were recommended were The Guinness Storehouse and the Jameson Distillery.

Neither one of us had toured a distillery before.   Surprisingly, the tour was similar to the beer tours we’d done.  The feel was the same, with walking through the ingredients, the process, the barreling, etc.

Jameson is special because its double malted and triple distilled.   What that means is that they use two types of barley – both malted and unmalted.  And that they put the liquor through 3 stills to get out more impurities.

Everything is done throughout the tour to show Jameson’s superiority.

Jameson Whisky starts its life as barley.   It is spread in a malt house on a heated floor, where it sprouts.  Then it goes into the oven for drying.  This is in contrast to some which are entirely done in the oven, like scotch, which gets a smoky taste.

Next, it goes to a Mill where both barkeys into powder called grist.  Jameson used a real river water wheel until 1971, but when they moved their factory, they changed.

Then comes the Mashing where it is warmed and the starch turns to sugar.   They drain the liquid out which is now called wort but later becomes the whisky.  The leftover grain matter goes to animal feed.  How green!

Next is Fermentation, done in a washback…here the wort is mixed with yeast.  It rests 3 days and a the end is 8% alcohol.

Distillation comes after.   This is done in a Pot Still to separate the water from the alcohol.   They boil the wort and the alcohol becomes vapor and goes into the neck and comes back down the other side as alcohol.

Our guide claimed that this triple distillation makes Jameson more pure and helps Ireland function better without hangovers.

Next comes Maturation.  The minimum time for whisky to “rest” before consumption is 3 years.   Jameson’s minimum is 5 years.   When you are in the room, it smells like vanilla which is the evaporated whisky.  Each year, the barrel loses 2% of its stock, which equates to 15,000 bottles in a year.   There is no way around it.  They tried burying the barrels but the whisky never matured.  So evaporation is key in maturation.  They call it the “angels share.”      It makes sense why the aged whisky is more expensive.  It is reduced significantly in volume after 25 years…someone has to pay for that.

They talked a bit about the barrels.  They actually use white oak barrels that are recycled…they come from Spanish port, sherry and Bourbon* from Kentucky!  The residue from the various other alcoholic drinks is critical.    I thought that was pretty neat.

The person who makes barrels is called a cooper. They have to train for 8 years…more than a doctor!

After the barrels are done at Jameson, they ship them to the Carribean for rum.  Another green practice.

After this, next is marrying and vatting. They mix the liquid made in each barrel, then add water and then bottle.

After this, we each got a shot of Jameson.  We could add ginger ale, sprite, or coke or have it “neat”.  We could also could use ice.  However, the guide told us it was only for “girls”.  Glad i was a girl. I had mine with ice and ginger.

Enjoying my Jameson & Ginger

Gabe volunteered to be among the elite whisky tasters who would try Jameson vs. Johnnie Walker Black Label vs. Jack Daniels.  This was meant to further drive the point of Jameson’s quality and to demonstrate what we learned.   It was a bonus because it was a lot more free whisky for him.

Ready to taste!

Tasting card in order of best to “worse” as they classified it

Love this shot!

He had to go in the order of Jameson, then Johnnie Walker (top scotch) and Jack (top American whisky).

The guide talked about the flaws in each one with the scotch being smoky and the Americans using new barrels vs. old, and corn vs. barley, which produced a sweet result.    It cracked me up that when the guide introduced Jack as smelling like “college and bad decisions”.   He also noted his frustration that when he visited Lynchburg, Tennesee it was a dry county and he couldn’t even buy it there.  He was perplexed.

After Gabe tasted, I tried.  I agreed that Jameson was the best.  It was the smoothest.  The Johnnie Walker didn’t do much for me.  But I am fine with the sweet taste of Jack.

You got me, Jameson, I am now a fan!

*We learned that the reason Bourbon is different from Whisky is that it is made in Kentucky.   Plus some other reasons.  But good to know….its like Champagne can only come from Champagne.

Related links:
The Swiss Watch Blog:  Heineken Redeems Itself

We graduated from Guinness Academy

A must for us in Dublin was the Guinness Storehouse.

A few fun facts about this iconic brewery:

-When Arthur Guinness took out the lease, it was for 9000 years.  Now that is thinking ahead.

-The factory spans 55 acres in downtown Dublin

-3 million pints are brewed at St James Gate each day

Every beer tour we’ve done has included a visual tour about the ingredients they use – barley, hops, water and yeast.  Guinness did as well, but claimed a 5th ingredient too.

Also every beer tour we’ve done included the process.   In going to Jameson the day after, we learned making whiskey is almost the same.

The steps for Guinness beer are:

Roasting

Mashing à Wort

Boiling

Fermentation

Maturation

Casking

Transport

Making Guinness back in the day

I found the area about transportation particularly interesting.  Since it was brewed downtown, they had to make special boats to get under the low Dublin bridges:

 

They also had to get it overseas:

How’d you like to be the captain of this boat?

Love their slogans

The Obamas enjoy their Guinness from time to time.

You’ll be happy to know that we graduated from Guinness Academy.  We even got diplomas.  This was the most fun part of the tour….learning how to pour a Guinness.    Now, at Heineken, you could do this with water and a tap, but at Guinness they really let you do it.   And pouring a Guinness is more involved than you would think!

First you must inspect the Guinness branded glass to make sure it is clean and absent of lipstick.  Being a marketing person, I appreciated the branding mention.

Next you tilt it and pull the tap toward you.  You fill it up to the Guinness logo then slowly tilt the glass upward and stop the tap.

You must let it rest.   Notice how the lighter ones have just been poured and the darker have rested a bit?  That is due to the special tap and helps accentuate the flavor.

 

Once dark, then, you top it off with a slow pour by pushing the tap backwards.

 

Then you proudly serve it.  Good things come to those who wait.

 

They also have a pretty sweet Gravity Bar to enjoy a drink:

You can order by the glass if you can’t drink a whole pint.  I did this when we visited all the pubs in Dublin.  It allowed me to keep up with Gabe “glass for glass”.   At Stag’s head, they even had teeny branded Guinness glasses.

Gratitude Friday: Sunburns in Dublin

We just returned from a fabulous long weekend in Ireland.  In preparation for our trip, we knew to expect rain.  My friend K told me her grandma says, “You don’t go to Ireland for the weather”.  We had heard stories of friends who never saw blue sky the entire time.

When the weather forecast included a sun, I refused to accept it.  After all, you know Murphy’s law.   So, I prepared my warmest sweaters and scarves to take.  A raincoat.  And an umbrella.

We were greeted with sun.   And it stayed.  We know this was unusual based on the research we did.  It was also accentuated by the Irish.  Every time we saw locals greet each other, they quipped about the unbelievable weather.   It was all the radio stations talked about.

We dripped with sweat in our jeans and long sleeves.  We were burned slightly.  We couldn’t be happier.

The city was so alive with people appreciating the turn of good luck.

Crowds filling the streets for happy hour

Loving the sun

Some sought the shadows

It was warm enough for street dancing in the evening

Even forgetting about the sunshine it donned on us, we loved the city of Dublin.   It was evident that it didn’t need the sun to have warmth….in the colors, the personality of the people, the liveliness of the local joints.

This guy might have had a little too much gratitude for the sun

And I am not just saying it.  The people were some of the nicest we have come by so far in our travels.  Sure, the English not being a barrier helps.  Two examples to further illustrate:

#1 – Gabe and I were debating where to go for lunch.  We had the map out and we knew where we were, just more bantering about when and where.  A businessman walked up to us and inquired, “Can I help you find your way?”.  Out of the blue he wanted to help us.

#2 – I had a little bit of a red eye the second morning (no, not the Guinness!) and we inquired about the nearest pharmacy so I could get some Visine.  As soon as we asked, the receptionist at the hotel came over, worried, and said, “now what’s wrong, what can I do?”  We told her the simple answer and she embraced me and gave my shoulders a rub, empathizing with me.  Even though my little malady wasn’t a big deal, it was really nice of her.

We knew the Irish people were great as we have a friend in Geneva who has set a first example.  We love her bubbling personality and art for conversation.  We really appreciated seeing the city in which she lived, colorful and fun, along with more friendly folks, just like her!

Luckily, she and her partner had given us lots of good tips for what to do and see…and most importantly, where to eat and have a Guinness.   So, we did just that.  I thought I’d share the list for those traveling to Dublin soon:

Elephant & Castle, recommended by T, this was a delicious lunch spot in Temple Bar.  They have great burgers, salads, and wings.  Loved the duck salad.

Stag’s Head – we went there for an early drink one night and for music the other night. Great Guinness and service.

Gabe enjoying Stag’s Head music

Me enjoying a glass of Guinness at Stag’s Head. Just my size.

Temple Bar – we walked by this when exploring the historical area and it was also a fun place for a drink with live Irish music

O’Neill’s. They have a hearty Irish buffet served all day. Also great Guinness and a very traditional atmosphere.

We stayed in the Mercantile Hotel. It was an awesome location with friendly staff. They also had a sweet bar below.

In addition, we really enjoyed outdoor lunch at Kitchen, and our pre-theatre dinner at La Stampa.  Sorry no pictures there.

We did one of the Hop On, Hop Off Buses.  I’d like to say we only did it to save my feet, but we really like these sometimes to scope out the area and it provides cheaper and direct transportation.  It did additionally help with the feet though.  We loved seeing Trinity College, St Stephens Green, Christchurch, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, and our stops at Guinness Storehouse and Jameson.

So, Dublin gets an A+ in our books.  Very grateful for our sunny experience.

Bon weekend, everyone!

Adding a new color to the Spring palette….

We first noticed the yellow fields when Couch Surfer was here, on our drive to the Chocolate Factory.  We aren’t used to field being this vibrant!    They have been a big point of discussion this Spring.    So, what exactly is it?

The first thing I was told was Canola.  Then I was informed it wasn’t canola but grape seed.  Finally, I was told it was a type of green for salads.   I think that S solved it by meeting a farmer and concluded it was actually “rape seed”.

Whatever it is, I sure can tell you it is miraculous to see:

A patchwork of yellow at the foot of the Alps

Fields of yellow

Moo cow with the yellow fields.  Sorry, I still like taking pictures of cows.

More and more yellow